La Taverna - The flavours of Kantha embroidered sarees at Unnati Silks Un Mims - Mar Lug 30, 04:19:49 Oggetto: The flavours of Kantha embroidered sarees at Unnati Silks Un
The flavours of Kantha embroidered sarees at Unnati Silks
Unnati Silks has very recently introduced a new range of Kantha embroidery sarees spread over several varieties of Mangalagiri cotton and pure south cotton. Certain distinguishing features of the new range are:
1) You have designer prints in the sarees with certain parts like flower portions of floral scapes
, within large evenly distributed motifs on the field, wavy and zigzag patterns, temple designs, other noticeable areas on the large expanse wide borders, re-iterated at their outlines with Kantha embroidery. The effect is not only captivating to mesmerizing but creates an effect of 鈥榙esign over design鈥?that is sensational.
2) The borders are wide and the colors chosen are nicely contrasting with the vibrant colored fields with field-border combinations like turmeric yellow-parrot green, violet-magenta, sky blue-pink, bridal pink-orange etc. Added to that you have selective portions embroidered with Kantha, sometimes major portions re-iterated with Kantha and then you have the tasseled ends in dual color contrast. It brings out the 鈥榳ow鈥?from within!
3) There are certain sarees that have a major portion of Kantha work done on them in lattice spread or wavy line patterns with temple design borders that create enchantment.
4) Then you have the large dimension motif magic with shapes within shapes within shapes and Kantha worked from outer to inner portions that provides for an exotic appearance. Very, very stylish indeed!
5) Themes like images of two dancers, designer vines, and such wide spread depictions with the Kantha embroidery is both novel and unique to the fashion-friendly and the stylish individual. The wearer gets gazed at with admiration and envy alike.
From pure cotton handloom fabrics, and woven with the devotion of the skilled craftsmen of Southern India, the Kantha worked sarees have yet again found new avenues to exhibit the charm and charisma of an age old tradition that never ceases to amaze.
Let us travel back in time to explorea little of the wonderful world of Kantha.
The use of Kantha
Kantha work is applied to a wide range of garments such as sarees, dupattas, shirts for men and women, bedding and other furnishing fabrics, mostly using cotton and silk. Women use old sarees and other cloth, layering them with the Kantha stitch to make small blankets and bedspreads, for children. They serve well in rural places for small babies to lie on. In fact you have wedding Kanthas made by mothers and gifted to their daughterseven today. In a particular village in Bengal, Kantha is found present on the ceremonial cloth meant for funeral rites.
Stitches such as darning stitch, satin stitch and loop stitch are commonly used in Kantha work.
How did Kantha originate?
Kantha originated from the way in which Bengali housewives mended old clothes by taking out a strand of thread from the colorful border of their saris and making simple designs with them. The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done with soft dhotis and saris, with a simple running stitch along the edges. As finished products they were known as LepKantha or SujniKantha, where the entire cloth was covered with running stitches,giving it a slight wrinkled, wavy effect. Kanthawas and is stillmade by women of all rural classes in Bengal, the rich landlord's wife making her own elaborate embroidered quilt in her leisure time; the tenant farmer's wife making her own thrifty, coverlet, which is also equal in beauty and skill to that of the former.
The Kantha in its simplest form was invented out of necessity and made in varying sizes and layers, starting with small pieces of cloth spread in the courtyard to lay new born babies on while they were massaged with mustard oil, to the light covers that adults use at night, and wrap over their shoulders in winter mornings.
Types of Kantha
There are different types of Kantha made for articles of different uses, with the Lep and Sujani being the most popular and well-known.
1) ArchilataKantha- Covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colorful borders.
2) LepKantha- Wraps which are heavily padded to make warm quilts.
3) BaitonKantha- Square wraps used for covering books.
4) DurjaniThalia- Quilted wallets made out of rectangular Kantha pieces.
5) OaarKantha- Pillow covers.
6) RumalKantha- Plate coverings.
7) SujaniKantha- Decorative quilted Kantha used as blankets or spreads.
The commercial development of Kantha
The idea of using Kantha embroidery as a means of commercial earnings never occurred to the rural folk of Bengal. It originated in urban groups where young women were trained from scratch and this aspect was gaining interest in the 1980s when NGOs saw fit to have several exhibitions. They also became involved with rural groups who started making Kanthas commercially for the first time. Most of these women did not have a formal education and had hardly been out of their villages.
When these groups formed, they didn't need further training in embroidery, but needed to learn the basics of accounting, management, raw material buying etc. Some NGOs guided the formation of self help groups that then carried on further by sharing their experiences and knowledge. The traditional way of several women working on one large piece of work continued with individual women also working on cloth tightened between frames. They learnt about tracing designs that they had never done before, since they used to just draw the designs straight on the fabric with a pencil and stitched on the importantly they came to learn the art of bargaining and handling transactions.
Today many women in rural Bengal do a lot of Kantha work for traders in Kolkata. The idea of working together as a group has given them more confidence of which they ar
With time, technology has.
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